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Vinitaly Day Four, Sunday, Part Two

Next, at Barberani, Bernardo presented their Castagnolo Secco ’09, Polago ’08, and the Foresco ’07.

The Polvento ’05, Rosso Lago di Corbara DOC, is terrific, and the label – an artist’s rendering of their hills – is truly beautiful. We sampled their new Moscato ’09, along with the Calcaia ’05, and the Villa Monticelli Moscato Passito ’06. I found myself most struck by their Polago and Calcaia, and considering how this covers their entire spectrum, from table red to precious dessert, I think this speaks volumes as to how high in quality all of their products are.

Next, we sampled the newest releases of Canalicchio di Sopra, the Rosso 2008, and the Brunello ’06, and discussed with Federico their solid potential. At Feudo Disisa, we sampled the Grillo ’09, Chara (a white of Cararratto lucido and Insolia) ’09, Vuaria ‘07 (their Nero d’Avola cru), Nero d’Avola ‘08, the Adhara Syrah, Tornamira (of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), Grillo ’06. With their Krysos, a dessert wine of Grillo, we enjoyed chocolates made with Krysos by a local chocolatier.

At Caruso & Minini, we sampled the Timpune (Grillo) ’09, Cutaja (Nero d’Avola) ’08, and their new Delia Nivolelli ’07, a Syrah Riserva. ‘Devia Nivolelli’ is the name of their DOC of Marsala, and the wine is aged for 24 months in french tonneaux, then another six in bottle.

By four o’clock we were still operating with the sleekness of a leopard, weaving around the masses of flushed-face locals, it being Sunday and all. Our weekday pace was no match for the weekender crowds, and so we threw in the towel – but only to make it in time for an amazing dinner with Giovanni Manetti and his staff at Fontodi. Here, someone has pinned the damage on my brother, with the remnants of a classic bistecca fiorentina. I believe Dom ordered the chicken.

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